Beijing, The Great Wall

Beijing is a city of 16 million people and 2 million cars. Even though the Wall is 45 miles outside of the city, the pictures reflect the pollution... a foggy haze in the background of all the pictures, especially in the city. We visited during the October National holiday so that the Wall is mobbed with people. The Wall is nearly 4000 miles long (as far as New York to Milan) and if one looks closely at the picture, you can see it snaking over the hills. It was built primarily in the Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD). We walked up the left side of the Wall, because it is steeper and, therefore, less crowded. During our walk we were asked many times to pose with family members. One young woman put her arm around me and then put her head on my shoulder! I'm not sure why we were asked more than other Westerners on the wall, but I did wonder if we would make it to the top. Two young men who were in high school talked to us for some time about our impressions of China and asked questions about our home and families.

Uncensored Reflections

Now that I am home and more recovered from the jet lag associated with more than 17 hours of flying time and the havoc caused by different foods and germs, I've decided to write about my experiences in a more complete way. I also want to add pictures to the comments. Since I really can't figure out how to edit what I have already done, I am just starting over. While I was in China, access to computers, as well as uncertainty about censorship practices kept me from commenting certain observations. So here goes....

Hello from Shanghai

Hi everyone,
I just wanted to let you know that we have completed the cruise down the Yangtze river through the famous gorges. Unfortunately, by the end of the month the water level will rise to 175 meters. It is currently at 155 meters, and was much, much lower before. The project has been monumental, including the resettlement of more than a million people. We saw the Three Gorges dam project today as the last excursion from the ship. It is amazing but even when it completed it will only provide 1% of the power for China! It is the third largest dam in the world. We just arrived in Shanghai and I am really looking forward to coming home. This is a wonderful four star hotel. Love, Mom

Potala Palace

This morning we climbed all 362 steps of the Potala Palace which was the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas. Much of it is closed but we were able to see the living quarters in the white palace and then many of the stupas, another word for tomb in this case, of the previous Dalai Lamas. It was quite a hike in the thin air, but it was stunning in the morning light. If any of you saw Seven Years in Tibet, it looks just like that.
Later on we visited the Jorhung Temple which is in the ancient part of Lhasa. What a sight...everywhere pilgrims slowly circumambulate the temple, often prostrating themselves periodically. They use paddles on their hands and slide forward on the stones as they fall to their knees. Their dress is so different...black yak wool lined with sheepskin, numerous braids, colorful scarves and headdresses. We went to the Borhor market which was truly a wild experience...vendors are very persistent. Tonight at dinner we will be seeing Tibetan Opera.
I may be incommunicado for awhile as we will next be on the Yangtze for the river cruise. I hope that Anne is reading this to Lauren and also I hope Mike reads this. I am really glad that you have been looking after Whizzer so well.

The Giant Panda

Hi Olivia,
I wanted to let you know that we got to see the baby pandas, but couldn't take pictures. One was so small it was in an incubator, but most were sleeping in a baby's crib, on their tummies with their back feet stretched out. The breeding program helps the moms so they keep both of their babies. The babies are more white than black but as they get older they have more and more black. The people take very good care of them, even helping them to poop! One of the group held the red panda which is more related to the fox. The niece of one of our group members who works there said that the earthquake has disrupted the panda habitat. There were 1600 giant pandas before the earthquake. They have to do more research to find out how they have been affected by it; they are really concerned. Love, Grandma

Hello from Tibet

This trip becomes more amazing with each passing day. Today we went higher into the mountains to visit a nomad family who are now in their winter home. They go to the mountains in the spring and live in tents made from yak hide. We brought small items to the family and were treated to tea there. The scenery is absolutely incredible...snow capped peaks in the distance, brown, rugged mountains above us. We were at 12,500 ft. today...even a few steps leaves us breathless. We went later to a primary school which is actually helped by the elderhostel program. We brought pencils, paper, rulers, etc. to give the children more supplies. The people dress completely differently from the other minority peoples. We have also had the opportunity to visit some monasteries and witness the religious practices of the people...more later.

LiJang and the local markets

Hi,
Today we spent time in the local peasant market; this is the home of the Naxi minority people. Their dress is different from the Bai people in Dali where the women wear very elaborate headdresses of white, embroidered flowers on a red background. Here the dress is more subdued, blue and brown. The peasant market was the usual array of animals, vegetables and goods, some of which I have never seen before. There was a group of men standing at the gate holding birds of prey that are their pets! The kids would be amazed...women carrying huge baskets filled with produce on their backs with only a strap across their foreheads to manage the load. Tomorrow we will go to Chengdu and see the giant pandas. One of our group has a niece who will tell us what is important about the giant pandas. Hopefully they won't be sleeping when we go to see them and I can get some good pictures.

Onward to Kunming and Dali

We had a rather difficult time getting to Kunming because of the problems with flights, arriving too late really to enjoy our wonderful, luxurious five star hotel, including orchids arranged on the bed tray. We flew then to Dali which is much more rural and more interesting; the air is clearer and the weather is pleasantly cool. We visited a local family and had tea. The old gentleman was quite fun, offering cigarettes to the men. One young man had wine with him.
One highlight today was to go to the local tie dye workshop and then to the local market. The work is very delicate and intricate.
The food has been wonderful and the people actually friendly and special. Love, Mom

Sending a post from a Chinese computer

I'm writing from Xian, after a day of sightseeing at the Qin Dynasty tombs. We saw the terracotta warriors, one of the main archaeological sites in China. Each warrior is differently painted and sculpted with individual features. There are three pits with thousands of soldiers in battle formation to protect the Emperor's soul.
We have had wonderful experiences...a dumpling dinner with dumplings shaped like chickens, leaves, etc. There are so many people that it is unbelievable. The streets are totally crowded and traffic rules are merely a suggestion!
The Great Wall was amazing. We were asked often to pose for pictures with Chinese families and had an extended discussion with two male high school students.
The pollution is unbelievable. One could hardly see the other side of Tiananmen Square. All for now.... there is so much. It takes some time to figure out how to use the Chinese computers!
Love, Mom